A family portrait is the most ambitious photo cross stitch most people attempt, and it's usually underestimated for one reason: people assume a family is like a group of pets. It isn't. A dog's face survives a surprisingly small chart. A grandmother's smile, stitched too small, becomes somebody else's.

This guide explains why, gives you the arithmetic for how wide a chart needs to be for your number of people, and shows the photo, layout and color choices that keep every face recognizable without turning the project into a year of evenings.

<Callout type="tip" title="Quick answer">
Every face in a family portrait needs its own share of stitches. **An eye needs about 5 stitches** to keep a rim, iris, pupil and catchlight. As arithmetic, with faces spread across a typical group photo, that's roughly **60+ stitches of chart width per person in a row**, so **four people side by side need about 250 stitches** (17.9 in on 14-count), which is exactly our generator's maximum chart width. If the chart is narrower, faces stop reading, and five or more in one row cannot reach 5 stitches per eye at all. **Crop tight, bring faces close together, use two rows**, or **stitch matching panels**. Measure your own photo; the method is below.
</Callout>

## Why faces need more stitches than pets

In [a pet portrait from a photo](/blog/cross-stitch-pet-portrait-tips), fur does a lot of work. It's texture, and a scatter of close shades reads as softness. A stitch one square out in a coat is invisible.

Faces are the opposite. We read people from small proportions: how far apart the eyes are, how wide the mouth is, where the cheek turns into the jaw. On a small chart each of those is one or two stitches, and moving a boundary by a single stitch changes the proportion by a large fraction. The result isn't a blurrier version of the person. It's a slightly different person, and the family notices immediately.

Skin makes it harder. It changes tone gradually, with no hair to break up the steps between shades. Too few colors and a face goes flat or blotchy; a shadow under the nose becomes a dark patch.

So the rule for a family portrait is simple: **the smallest face sets the size of the whole chart.**

## How many stitches each face needs

Count the parts of a face that have to exist as separate stitches:

| Feature | Parts that need their own stitch | Minimum |
|---|---|---|
| Eye, across | Rim, iris, pupil, catchlight, iris, rim | About 5 |
| Mouth, top to bottom | Upper lip, the line between, lower lip | About 3 rows |
| Nose, across | Two nostrils and the shadow between | About 3 |

That minimum is where a face starts to hold together. Around double it, 10 stitches across an eye, there's room for the iris to shade and for a smile to have a shape rather than a line. [Photo cross stitch pattern size](/blog/photo-cross-stitch-pattern-size) sets out the general method for any subject; the rest of this section applies it to a group.

### The width where faces stop reading

To turn "5 stitches per eye" into a chart width, you need two proportions from your own photo. Here's the arithmetic with example proportions; the method to measure yours comes straight after.

**Assumptions for this table (measure yours):** each person takes an equal share of the photo width, their face is about 40% of that share (the rest is shoulders and the gaps between people, a little looser than a tight single portrait), and one eye is about a fifth of the face width. So each eye is about 8% of one person's share of the width.

| People in one row | Chart width where eyes get ~5 stitches | Width for ~10 stitches per eye | ~5-stitch width on 14-count |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | 63 | 125 | 4.5 in |
| 2 | 125 | 250 | 8.9 in |
| 3 | 188 | 375, over our 250 maximum | 13.4 in |
| 4 | 250, our maximum | 500, over the maximum | 17.9 in |
| 5 | 313, over the maximum | 625, over the maximum | not possible in one row |
| 6 | 375, over the maximum | 750, over the maximum | not possible in one row |

Below the widths in the second column, with these proportions, eyes drop under 5 stitches and faces stop reading as the people they are. The right-hand column is the finished width on 14-count Aida at the minimum, before any margin. Our generator's chart width runs from 20 to 250 stitches, so the rows marked over the maximum are arithmetic only: they cannot be made in one row, and the fix for a large group is more rows, a tighter crop or panels.

Look at what that means. **Four people in a row need a chart about 250 stitches wide just to keep the eyes,** which is as wide as our generator goes, so there is no room to double it for faces with more shading. At 150 stitches, a comfortable width for a single pet portrait, four people get about 3 stitches per eye.

### Measuring your own photo

Your proportions will differ, so run the numbers on your photo before making anything.

1. **Crop the photo** as you intend to stitch it and note its width, in pixels or millimeters.
2. **Find the smallest face**, usually a child or someone standing further back.
3. **Measure one eye** on that face, corner to corner, in the same unit.
4. **Divide the eye by the crop width**, then multiply by the chart width you're considering.

As a worked example, not a measurement: a crop 2,000 pixels wide, with the smallest eye 36 pixels across. The eye is 1.8% of the width. A 150-stitch chart gives it 2.7 stitches, too few, and even our 250-stitch maximum gives only 4.5. So this photo cannot be charted well as cropped: crop it tighter, to 1,400 pixels wide, and the same eye is 2.6% of the width, which gives 5.1 stitches on a 200-stitch chart.

Also check pixels across the smallest face: if it's fewer pixels than the stitches you plan for it, the photo can't supply the detail, whatever the chart size.

## Getting more face per stitch

Before you settle for the 250-stitch maximum, change the photo. Each of these raises the eye's share of the width, and so lowers the stitches you need.

- **Crop tight.** Shoulders, hands and background take width without adding likeness. A head-and-shoulders crop gives each face a much larger share of the width than a waist-up shot.
- **Bring faces together.** People standing apart waste width in the gaps. Cheek to cheek, or heads leaning in, puts more of the width into faces.
- **Use two rows.** Children in front, adults behind, puts faces into the height of the chart as well as the width. A 4-person family in two rows of two needs roughly the width of a 2-person row, plus height.
- **Keep everyone the same distance from the camera.** A person a step behind the others has a smaller face, and the smallest face sets the size.
- **Leave out the background.** An unstitched background costs nothing, and with the faces as the only stitched area, the stitch total drops a lot.

## Taking the photo on purpose

If everyone is still around for a photo, take one specifically to be stitched. It's the single biggest improvement you can make.

- **Daylight, indirect.** Near a large window or outside on an overcast day, so no face is in hard shadow.
- **Same light on every face.** Check that nobody is half in shade.
- **Camera at face height**, not above, so eyes aren't hidden under brows.
- **Faces close together**, in one or two rows, filling the frame.
- **Burst mode.** With several people, someone always blinks. Take many frames and choose the one where every face works.
- **Plain background.** A wall or a hedge rather than a busy room; you'll probably leave it unstitched anyway.
- **Check glasses for glare** in each frame; a reflection on a lens gets stitched as a pale patch. Try tilting the glasses slightly or moving the light.

A professionally taken family photo is often better lit, but it usually belongs to the photographer. [Using photos for cross stitch: the copyright rules](/blog/cross-stitch-copyright-photos) explains what to ask before charting one.

### Pets in the family portrait

Pets are the easy part. A dog's eye survives with fewer stitches than a person's because fur carries the rest, so the people will set the chart size, not the animal. If you're planning an animal-only piece with more than one pet, [two pets in one cross stitch](/blog/two-pets-one-cross-stitch) covers the layout.

## Combining separate photos, or stitching panels

It's tempting to cut people from different photos and paste them together. Faces from different photos rarely match in light direction, color and scale, and once stitched, the mismatch is obvious: one face is warm, another grey; one lit from the left, one from the right.

Two approaches work better:

- **One photo taken on purpose**, as above.
- **Matching panels.** A small portrait of each person, each from their own best photo, stitched as a series and framed together. Each face gets a whole chart's width, so a 100-stitch panel gives an eye far more stitches than a 100-stitch-wide group chart would. Use the same crop, the same chart size and a similar color count for every panel so they look like a set, and stitch them one at a time, which is kinder to a deadline.

<LeadMagnet id="project-planner" />

## Skin tones and color count

Skin needs more shades than most subjects of the same size, and a family usually has more than one complexion. A palette that serves a pale baby and a tanned grandfather in one chart needs more colors than a portrait of either one.

- **Don't cut the color count too hard.** Faces flatten quickly. If a preview with fewer colors turns cheeks into blotches, go back up.
- **Watch the shadows.** The shadow under the nose, the line of the jaw and the corners of the mouth carry the expression. Check that they are soft steps, not a dark shape.
- **Check the thread, not just the screen.** A preview shows floss colors approximately. DMC sells a card with [real thread swatches of every shade](https://www.dmc.com/US/en/products/floss-color-card-mouline-pearl-cotton); compare the key's numbers against real thread in daylight before buying the whole palette.
- **Each color costs at least one skein.** A family portrait with many shades has a long shopping list even if it's small.

[Cross stitch skin tones](/blog/cross-stitch-skin-tones) goes further into choosing and checking shades for faces.

## Fine features: backstitch and fractional stitches

Two techniques help a face beyond what full cross stitches can do.

**Backstitch.** DMC describes backstitch as [great for adding facial features](https://www.dmc.com/US/en/use-back-stitch-to-accentuate-your-cross-stitch), suggests a single strand for fine lines, and recommends darker shades of the colors in the design rather than black for a subtler look. A single-strand line can define a smile or the edge of glasses that a full stitch would make too heavy. Add it last, as DMC advises, after the cross stitches.

**Fractional stitches.** Three-quarter stitches smooth curves such as a cheek or chin. The Cross Stitch Guild notes they are [more difficult to form on Aida](https://www.thecrossstitchguild.com/cross-stitch-basics/cross-stitch-basics/cross-stitching-on-aida.aspx) than on evenweave, so if a chart uses many of them, consider evenweave stitched over two.

<ToolCTA title="Count the stitches across every face before you commit" text="Upload the family photo, try two or three widths, and check the smallest face in the free preview. When every face reads, the PDF is $5.99, with a symbol chart, a color chart, DMC numbers and skein counts; if you make matching panels from several photos, the $7.99 monthly pass covers as many patterns as you like." />

## Checking the preview face by face

Look at each person separately, starting with the smallest face.

1. **Count stitches across one eye.** Under about 5, crop tighter or go wider.
2. **Find both catchlights.** A face with dull eyes looks tired or absent.
3. **Check each mouth.** Is the smile still a smile?
4. **Check glasses, hair and beards.** Glasses frames often vanish on small charts; backstitch can put them back.
5. **Compare skin tones.** Has anyone turned grey or orange?
6. **Step back.** From across the room, do you recognize everyone at a glance?
7. **Ask a family member** who isn't you. You know what you meant to see; someone else sees what's there.

If one face fails and the others pass, the chart isn't ready. The weakest face is the one everyone will look at.

## Time, and the size you'll actually finish

Family portraits get big quickly, and total stitches grow with the square of the width.

| Chart size | Total stitches if fully stitched | Blocks of 100 | At 15 min per block (arithmetic) |
|---|---|---|---|
| 125 × 100 | 12,500 | 125 | ~31 hours |
| 190 × 150 | 28,500 | 285 | ~71 hours |
| 250 × 200 | 50,000 | 500 | 125 hours |
| 250 × 250 | 62,500 | 625 | ~156 hours |

The 15-minute figure is only an example; time a 10 × 10 block of your own on a detailed area and use that. Leaving the background unstitched can remove a large share of the total, so count what you'll actually stitch.

If the piece is a gift for a date, count backwards before you start. [Cross stitch gifts from photos](/blog/cross-stitch-gifts-from-photos) shows how, and suggests what to do if the date is too close: crop tighter, stitch panels one at a time, or give the chart and the work in progress. A new baby is a good reason to start with a smaller piece and add to the family later; [a baby birth sampler](/blog/baby-birth-sampler-cross-stitch) is one way to do that.

## Before you buy fabric

- Measure the finished size: stitches ÷ fabric count, in inches. A 250-stitch chart is 17.9 inches wide on 14-count and 13.9 on 18-count, with the same detail.
- Add a margin; DMC recommends [at least 8 cm / 3 inches](https://www.dmc.com/US/en/technique-cross-stitch-prepare-fabric) on every side.
- Start from the center of the design and the fabric, as [DMC advises](https://www.dmc.com/US/en/technique-cross-stitch-begin), so every face lands where you planned.

When you have the photo, [upload it and look at the smallest face first](/#start). If that one reads, the rest will.

## Frequently asked questions

### How many stitches wide should a family portrait cross stitch be?

Work it out from the number of people. As arithmetic: if each face is about 40% of one person's share of the photo width and an eye is a fifth of a face, each eye gets about five stitches when the chart is roughly 63 stitches wide per person in a row. Four people side by side then need about 250 stitches, which is the generator's maximum width, so a larger group needs two rows or separate panels.

### Why do faces need more stitches than pets?

Because we recognize people by small differences: the width of a mouth, the gap between the eyes, the line of a jaw. Fur hides a stitch out of place and even makes it look soft, but on a face that same stitch changes the expression. The eyes and mouth need enough stitches to keep their proportions.

### What photo works best for a family portrait cross stitch?

One where every face is sharp, in the same light, with eyes open and looking roughly toward the camera. Faces close together use the width better than people spread out, and two rows use the height as well. Take many shots in a burst and choose the frame where nobody blinked.

### Can I combine separate photos into one family portrait?

You can, but faces from different photos rarely match in light, color and scale, and the join shows once stitched. Two alternatives work better: a single photo taken on purpose, or separate small portraits stitched as matching panels, each made from its own photo with the same crop and settings.

### How long does a family portrait cross stitch take?

Longer than most people expect, so measure your own pace. Time one 10 by 10 block and multiply by the chart's total stitches divided by 100. As arithmetic, a 250 by 200 chart is 50,000 stitches; at 15 minutes a block that is 500 blocks, or 125 hours.

### How do I get skin tones right in a cross stitch family portrait?

Give skin enough shades, and check them in real thread. Too few colors turn faces flat or blotchy, and screens show floss colors only approximately. Compare the chart's DMC numbers against a thread swatch card or real skeins in daylight, especially when family members have different complexions.

## Sources

- [DMC — Use back stitch to accentuate your cross stitch (facial features, single strand, darker shades instead of black, add after cross stitches)](https://www.dmc.com/US/en/use-back-stitch-to-accentuate-your-cross-stitch)
- [DMC — Thread color card with real swatches of every shade](https://www.dmc.com/US/en/products/floss-color-card-mouline-pearl-cotton)
- [DMC — How to prepare your fabric (border of at least 8 cm / 3 inches)](https://www.dmc.com/US/en/technique-cross-stitch-prepare-fabric)
- [DMC — How to begin cross stitch (start in the middle of the design and fabric)](https://www.dmc.com/US/en/technique-cross-stitch-begin)
- [DMC — What fabric should I use? (count is the number of stitches per inch)](https://www.dmc.com/US/en/technique-cross-stitch-what-fabric)
- [The Cross Stitch Guild — Cross stitching on Aida (fractional stitches more difficult)](https://www.thecrossstitchguild.com/cross-stitch-basics/cross-stitch-basics/cross-stitching-on-aida.aspx)